Costa Rica
Pura Vida! An expression that captures the spirit of Costa Rica--it means everything is going great--a philosophy that embodies good spirits and a strong community. And a visit to Costa Rica can embody many things: beautiful, blooming flowers and shrubs; volcanoes; rain and cloud forests; coffee plantations; pristine beaches; butterflies; good food; ox-drawn carts and charming people. In 1948 the country’s leaders resolved a civil war stalemate by disbanding the army and using the funds to educate the Ticos, as Costa Ricans call themselves. Consequently, the people are not only delightful, they are well-educated.
Located in Central America between Nicaragua and Panama, Costa Rica’s temperate climate means that most homes need neither heat nor air. The central valley, ringed with volcanic mountain ranges, is where the capital city, San Jose, is located, along with its burgeoning suburbs.
Tourists with adventuresome spirits can camp out in lush rain forests, showering with geckos and making friends with various reptiles and other forms of wildlife. One of the most popular excursions includes zip-lining over the tops of the rain forest, possibly with a 20-foot drop into a cool river stream below.
Luxurious resorts are located in and around the both the Pacific and Atlantic (or Caribbean) coasts, offering stunning views, golf courses and beach activities. Boat trips to off-shore islands tempt many visitors as well.
Back in the central valley, less strenuous offerings are numerous. The National Theatre is home to the country’s symphony, and the building, built in the 1890s with funds from a tax on coffee, is lavishly decorated. In addition to the National Symphony, many visiting orchestras have played on its stage. Beautifully maintained, the building enhances the musical and artistic presentations.
A short drive from the center of the city is a butterfly farm. Although small, the enclosed farm grows the host plants the different varieties of butterflies need. A knowledgeable guide points out the eggs, caterpillars, pupa, and, of course, the adults themselves. The farm ships the pupa around the region.
Coffee plantations abound, and several can be toured to learn about one of the most important ingredients in the economy of the country. Coffee used to be first on the economic list, but is now fifth, as the coffee growers decided to concentrate on quality instead of quantity. But the culture of growing and producing the coffee is quite interesting and is told in creative ways, particularly at Café Britt. Most of the coffee plantations have gift shops and restaurants.
An absolute must on the list of places to visit is Lankester Botanical Gardens, a cooperative project between the University of Costa Rica and the American Orchid Society. In addition to the astonishing array of orchid varieties in the greenhouses, there are many other tropical epiphytic plants, plus paths through the rain forest, featuring field collections including cacti, palms and bamboo. In all there are over 3000 species of plants.
Several of the steam-venting, active volcanoes in the area can be visited; fortunately it has been several years since an eruption. The rides up to the volcanoes allow striking scenic views of coffee farms, vegetable fields, Boston fern greenhouses and much more. An interesting contrast to the rain forests are the cloud forests in the higher elevations. The land is constantly moving in Costa Rica, as the area is subject to earthquakes which in recent months have left homes stranded as the ground fell away under them. Driving up the mountain road might also include an encounter with a cheerfully painted ox-pulled cart with a load of stones or lumber. Still being constructed today in factories and workshops, the oxcarts are made and painted by hand, even to the wooden wheels. A visit to one of the workshops increases the appreciation for these typical Costa Rican vehicles.
There are hotels of all levels in San Jose and its suburbs, with most of the familiar chains represented. One of the loveliest, in Escazu, a trendy suburban area, is the Hotel Intercontinental. Among other options are bed and breakfast inns. Posada el Quijote, also in Escazu, is high enough above the valley to offer lovely views of the central valley over its luxuriant gardens. Casa de las Tias is closer into town, a little more rustic, but owned and operated by equally charming, helpful and welcoming hosts. And the breakfasts at both are delicious.
Speaking of delicious food, the restaurant options are as varied as the visitors’ tastebuds. Rosti Pollo is a local chain, offering roasted chicken; American chains are scattered about; even the upscale grocery stores such as Auto Mercado have eating places. Several fine restaurants feature local fish such as corvina, sea bass or tuna, incorporated into their French, Italian or Spanish cuisine. Bacchus, Le Monastere or the restaurant at Hotel Grano de Oro are all excellent, if expensive, choices.
A popular Sunday family outing is to a favorite restaurant such as La Lluna de Valencia, where the afternoon is spent eating, drinking and enjoying the resident band. Birthdays and other special occasions are observed, huge skillets of paella or other restaurant specialties are paraded to the tables while smiles and clapping abound.
Two strong cautions: first, in contrast to the generally languid pace of Tico life, when Costa Ricans get into the driver’s seat of their cars, they become harried and aggressive. So forego renting a car or attempting to drive; allow the plentiful, reasonably-priced taxis to wend their way through the unnamed streets and unnumbered buildings. Directions usually consist of going to where so-and-so used to live or such-and-such used to be located, and turn there. The second caution is to be mindful of your surroundings and your billfold/purse, camera, etc. Nefarious characters tend to prey on tourists, as in many other places.
Mark Twain has been quoted as saying, “Never put off until tomorrow what you can put off until the day after.” He would have made a good Tico. “Everything takes longer in Costa Rica…that’s why we live so long,” is an oft-repeated adage. The “pura vida” life-style makes Costa Rica a delightful place to visit, especially if you like to smile.
Places to stay:
Casa de las Tias: www.hotels.co.cr/casatias.html
Posada el Quijote: www.quijote.co.cr
Real Intercontinental Hotel: www.ichotelsgroup.com
Restaurants:
Restaurant at the Hotel Grano de Oro: www.hotelgranodeoro.com
Le Monastere: www.monastere-restaurant.com
Bacchus: no web site, but well-known in the San Jose area
La Lluna de Valencia: www.lallunadevalencia.com