Quebec, CA
To get a taste of Europe without leaving the North American continent, travel to the charming French city in Canada, Quebec City. With a picturesque location on the St. Lawrence River, historic sites, cobbled streets, good food and much more, a visit to Quebec City, especially when it is clothed in fall colors, is a treat. Though Quebec is a French-speaking area, folks are bilingual, so if your high school French is not up to par, you can still be understood.
This French city is located in the province of Quebec and is a cosmopolitan contrast to that region’s plains, mountains, forests and lakes. The city itself is divided, first into Old City and New City, and the Old City is then subdivided into Upper Town and Lower Town, which are connected by a funicular or serviced by small step-on, step-off buses, which come in handy if you get tired of walking.
The most recognizable feature of Quebec City is the Chateau Frontenac Hotel with its gables and turrets, which crowns the bluff on the edge of Upper Town, overlooking the river. Now owned by the Fairmont chain, the hotel has welcomed guests for many years to the center of the Old City with elegance and style. Tourists staying in other accommodations should take advantage of the opportunity to walk through the hotel’s public areas or eat a meal in one of its restaurants.
Just steps away from Chateau Frontenac are the squares, shops, restaurants, monuments and churches of Old Town. The basilica is ornately decorated with lovely stained glass windows and provides a worshipful interlude for the visitor. Its history is detailed on information panels, but guided tours are also available. Shops and restaurants of every description and price range, including a museum/shop of Inuit carvings are also within walking distance.
On the upper plateau of Quebec City is Jardin des Gouverneurs, a small park that holds the historic Wolfe-Montcalm Monument. The obelisk honors both the winning English general, James Wolfe, and the losing French general, Louis-Joseph Montcalm, who were on opposite sides of the decisive 1759 battle on the Plains of Abraham that ended the rule of the French in Canada.
The Plains of Abraham, part of the enormous area called The Fortifications, can also be explored. The ramparts that the French began building have been incorporated into the walls that still enclose parts of the Old City and can be walked for several miles. There are lovely views of the river from this area as well.
At the very edge of the Upper Town as the Old City begins to merge into the New City is the parliament building, another interesting place to visit that has an excellent gift shop where interesting souvenirs can be purchased. If the legislature is not in session, the parliament halls can be visited.
A stay in Quebec City would be less than complete if lots of time were not set aside to visit the Lower Town, the oldest part of the city. Winding cobblestone streets, an ancient church, and a fascinating mural are some of the options to discover. At one time, the area surrounding the historic section was plagued with empty warehouses, but recently trendy shops, restaurants and galleries have rejuvenated those eyesores. There is a ferry terminal where visitors can get a round-trip ticket for a ride across the river and back, getting a wonderful view of Quebec City from a unique vantage point.
Informative tours are available for both the city and surrounding areas. Although most of the Old City can be walked, especially with the aid of the funicular or the buses, half or full-day coach tours with a knowledgeable guide are recommended, too. The city tour usually includes a visit through The Fortifications, which is harder to do on foot.
The tour selections for surrounding areas offer a number of options, all appealing, depending on the interests of the visitors. In addition to coach tours, some of the tours can be done on one’s own by car.
A tour to the east takes visitors across a bridge to Ile d’Orleans, one of the larger islands in the river, and includes a stop at a maple sugar business and a view of rural life. Back on the mainland, a copper center with jewelry and art work, especially extraordinary embossed and enameled pieces can also be visited. A spectacular stop is Montmorency Falls, which has a much smaller volume of water than Niagara Falls, but is almost 100 feet higher. There is a suspension bridge over the top of the falls and a trail to a lookout halfway down from the top. An information center, with views up to the top, sits at the foot of the falls. Another highlight of this tour is a stop at the shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupré with its stories of miraculous healings as evidenced by the tower of abandoned crutches, canes and braces.
More adventurous side trips could include a boat trip to watch whales or, heading north from the city, national parks offer cabins or tent camping, hiking, and once winter settles in, snow skiing. The Laurentian Mountain region has scenic gorges, lakes and trails of varying difficulty.
Accommodation choices in the city range from the luxurious Chateau Frontenac Hotel (www.fairmont.com/frontenac) to the more moderate Delta Quebec Hotel (www.deltahotels.com) with its creative interior pool and location close to the convention center. There are also a number of other hotel choices, along with inns and B&Bs.
A great choice for a meal in Lower Town is Le Cochon Dingue (www.cochondingue.com), otherwise known as the Crazy Pig, an apt name for its décor which combines checkerboard floors with old stone walls. The food, served indoor or at sidewalk tables, is delicious and moderately priced.
For reasonably priced, delicious food in Upper Town, check out Ristorant au Parmesan (www.restaurantparmesan.com) on Rue St. Louis, just around the corner and down the street from the main square of Old Town. The friendly staff and good food will warm your heart and quench your appetite.
Quebec City is a wonderful place to visit any time of the year, but is especially attractive when graced by autumn’s moderate temperatures and colorful leaves.
www.quebecregion.com